First Drive on JRSC, AOK!

[Holden]

The JB Weld plugged the coolant leak from the manifold and I don't appear to have any leaks from the main water pipe even though I rotated it slightly.

So I put everything back together, retarded the timing to 8 degrees and headed out for a beer run.

It runs great! No check engine light, temperature is normal and rock steady. I can't even hear or feel a difference from before the JRSC until the bypass closes with a satisfying "Click" and the invisible winch attached to my front bumper starts reeling me in! (I did have Greddy PE, RSR headers and AEM cai before, so it wasn't exactly quiet to begin with!)

I tested mainly in 2nd and 3rd gears. No redline. Only temporary WOT. No real launches. Hey, it was the first test after all!

As my confidence grows I'll beat on it fully.

I'll keep the timing at 8 degrees and leave the flawed manifold on for a while to shake loose any bugs before I dive in to put the new manifold in.

I do notice that after driving, the idle bobs around slowly between 1000 and 1500 RPMs for a minute and then settles back down to normal ( < 900 RPMs).

Also, the throttle reaction is slower. My heel-toeing is going to learn to have a heavier toe!

I'll update my website in a few days and get some GTech numbers and post back.

Thanks for the help along the way. It's just barely been fun.

Later,

Greg Holden
96 GSR, JRSC, Walbro Pump, RSR Headers, AEM Intake, Greddy PE

[Turismo]

Glad to hear it's Alive. You gotta go into the VTEC zone to fully understand it though, 8100 comes quick (hehe). Too bad it will feel like it did to you before in a month and leave you wanting more,More,MORE!

[lundgren]

Throttle response is due to timing being retarded.

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Lundgren
Lundgren's Integra Site
My AllAdvantage Page

[VTeCno Geek]

Not just timing retard. The throttle response and the idle bobbing are both due alot to the overabundance of off-boost fuel. Sorry, but the car just doesn't need 50-60psi at idle, but that is what Jackson gives you with their FPR to get the top-end fuel out that they want.

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[rjaffey]

I've got to disagree there. The throttle response on my car is as good or better than stock. It was originally a tad sluggish when I'd set the timing to 10 degrees, but now running 14 degrees of timing it's all there.

[VTeCno Geek]

I have my timing set at 10deg, but my Throttle response was better until I went 8psi, and had to crank up the fuel pressure. Now it really sucks, and I didn't change the timing.

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[JRCivic]

You guys are ALL right... the timing issue makes the car slower out of the hole: it doesn't rev as fast in the low RPM range. The fuel is another matter. Remember that the JR FMU is shipped from the factory with a 58-60 psi baseline pressure. If you can dial some out, say 2 psi at a time, and still maintain a knock free midrange, the throttle response will improve. This change, however, can ONLY be done if you have the Walbro GSS-342 pump... because it has the range necessary for the proper infusion of fuel up above 7000 rpm.

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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.88 at 110 mph

[Holden]

JRCivic: Is the Walbro pump you mentioned the regular pressure 255lph pump, the high pressure 255lph pump or something else entirely?

This high idle makes stop and go traffic a little more difficult. I used to be able to cruise at 3mph in first gear and only use the gas pedal. Now the car wants to go like 10mph at idle and I have to constantly use the clutch to go slower.

Thanks,

Greg Holden
96 GSR, JRSC, Walbro regular pressure 255lph pump.

[VTeCno Geek]

The JR FPR will not let you dial beneath the 50psi baseline. It has the stock bottom line set at 50psi. Unless you know something we don't, I have never been able to get it below that level. And currently, even with 270's, if I set it too much below 55psi, it won't get the rise needed to keep me from running lean with 8psi of boost.

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[Turismo]

VTeChno, I beleive you can get the JR unit to go below 50psi. I have a VDO Pressure guage "T"'d in at the JR regulator and I can lower it to almost any pressure. The readings here are a little strange though because of the stock regulator doing it's thing before hand. I currently have it at @ 60 psi with the vacume hose removed but when you put it back on the pressure sits about 30-35 psi. I beleive if you got an adaptor to replace the stock unit with a hose barb and used onlt the JR you could dial in almost any idle pressure this way but you would have to make sure at this setting that you still get enough at 0 vacume and under boost. Under boost doesn't seem like an issue because no matter how low I take it it spikes above 80psi when you mash the throttle. I thought about trying this but at only 6psi and stock injectors I dont have a reason to go below the factory regulator's pressure and it's kinda like having a fail-safe for the JR unit (at least you would have stock pressure if it goes out). May want to try it. I have an aftermarket regulator from "Landspeed" that came witht the "barb" fitting to replace the stock unit.